With so much talk of disruption in media, retail and the fashion system, the chaos was bound to make its way into clothes.
The first leg of Fall 2016 shows is in full swing in NY and deconstruction has surfaced as a recurring theme.
Deconstruction. Disruption. Chaos. Whatever you want to call it, it all boils down to the same thing: it’s not business as usual.
Oh, there are still plenty of red carpet dresses, including many of the naked variety, by Jenny Packham, Reem Acra, and Johnathan Simkhai. All-white is the new all-black for day or night, especially when topped with a stunning fur-trimmed coat like at Prabal Gurung. There’s a cowgirl thing happening on the one hand, and sci fi on the other. Sometimes they come together in one place, like Jeremy Scott’s guitar and planetary knits. Opening Ceremony’s set even featured balloon-like space craft.
The athleisure trend seems bent on world domination with knit-cuffed trousers at 3.1 Phillip Lim, chic racing looks at Altuzarra (see #20) and Hood by Air’s entire line-up.
But there’s a certain f- you attitude running through some collections. The marijuana motifs at Alexander Wang. The models running helter skelter at Hood by Air. The I’ll-layer-it-anyway-I-please styling at Public School. And the chaotic prints and embroidery at Libertine.
It will be interesting to see how it all shakes out as the fashion train moves on to London this weekend.
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